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Armani Conquers China, Chastises the Pope June 01st, 2012 @ 11:53 AM



 
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Helmut Lang Cuts Loose

Renata Espinosa
July 17th, 2007 @ 5:00 PM - New York

Slouchy slacks and crinkly, crunchy fabrics – the first full menswear collection for Helmut Lang designed by Nicole and Michael will offer plenty of both for next spring.

Acquired in 2006 by Link Theory, the new Helmut Lang hasn't strayed from techno fabrics, a modernist color palette of black, white, tan and grey and the kind of minimalist cool you’d expect from the original, except now with a more relaxed silhouette suited to the younger audience their parent company is now courting.

The duo, who presented the Spring '08 collection in their airy, industrial workspace in Chelsea last week, kept things light on top with almost translucent, sometimes waxy paper-thin jackets and cardigans and loose on bottom with drop crotch trousers and relaxed skinny pants, which will be a welcome break from second-skin denim the guys are sweating in this summer. Anoraks were spiced up with asymmetrical zips and oversized cowl necks, but in reality, you can't beat the classic windbreaker, here cut slim and in grey.

We also liked the look of paper bag waist shorts worn over stovepipe pants; the hippie-grunge-art school dropout take on layering would be just as at home on a Sunday afternoon at P.S. 1 as it would be on a camping trip in the Pacific Northwest.

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