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Narciso Rodriguez: Simple Optics

Graphic black and white slowly gave way to juxtapositions of black, pale pink and dove grey at the Narciso Rodriguez show Tuesday night. Gone were the soft, un-Narciso like shapes Rodriguez introduced to not so rave reviews last season and back were the structural, scuba seams he works so well with.

The Cuban-American designer, who doesn't follow trends but instead sings to his own minimal-chic tune, filled the immense white gallery space at Exit Art for his second season outside of the tents. His audience – from Anna Wintour to Aerin Lauder to photographers Inez van Lamsweerde and Vinoodh Matadin – is now a bit more diverse since he started to apply his sensible hand to menswear last season.

Rodriguez's play with graphic contrast and structural simplicity is always a breath of fresh air for an industry that has been bombarded with what feels like a never-ending revival of '80s fashion and too many "plays" on volume. The designer's new affinity for optics was refreshing in its simple forms, like the black wool coat covering an almost white dress that was topped with a block of black from chest to high neck paired with an eye-grabbing trompe l'oeil boots that gave the illusion of a sandal toe and ankle strap.

The illusions continued as Rodriguez showed more women’s looks that were pieced together in contrasting colors. His menswear, however, was not as tricky, but rather straightforward and easy to wear, except for a few pairs of black shorts that showed off pasty winter legs.

It seems Rodriguez is hoping for that global warming will ward off winter this year as his collection, save for a basic coat and boxy jacket here and there, looked rather spring-like. His choice of colors, other than the black that marked many of his pieces, was rather pallid and his dresses were, as they usually are, tanks.

Well, it is always summertime in Cuba. Rodriguez must have been feeling close to his roots this season.

* Narciso Rodriguez: True to Form * Narciso Rodriguez: Futurist Patrician		* Vera Wang Resort: Surreal Sophistication * Jason Wu Resort: French New Wave Refresher