Fashion Wire Daily: the First Word in Fashion


Versus Hires Jonathan Anderson November 29th, 2012 @ 11:04 AM

Cacharel Unveils New CEO, in Major Corporate Revamp November 21st, 2012 @ 00:56 AM

Kane Drops Out of Versus in Major Shake-up November 20th, 2012 @ 10:14 AM

Pucci’s Madison Avenue Store Debuts Massive Expansion November 16th, 2012 @ 00:35 AM

Ghesquière Departs Balenciaga in Major Surprise November 05th, 2012 @ 00:43 AM

Sao Paulo Fashion Week: Between Optimism and Fear November 02nd, 2012 @ 00:28 AM

London Unveils Men’s Season Schedule November 01st, 2012 @ 00:36 AM

Azzaro Releases Castello Branco October 25th, 2012 @ 00:18 AM

Revenue Soars 22 Percent at LVMH in First Three Quarters October 16th, 2012 @ 00:18 AM

Rykiel Names Geraldo da Conceicao Artistic Director September 21st, 2012 @ 8:12 PM

Brazil’s New London Pop-Up September 21st, 2012 @ 7:20 PM

McQueen Men Returning Home to London September 12th, 2012 @ 7:19 PM

Roitfeld, Mum and Son, Open in Brazil September 07th, 2012 @ 00:54 AM

Berluti Opens to Big-Time Business in London September 06th, 2012 @ 3:27 PM

Stefano Pilati Back with a Bang at Zegna September 05th, 2012 @ 7:10 PM

Hugo Boss Wows in Berlin, Plans for New York July 06th, 2012 @ 00:17 AM

Salvatore Ferragamo: Crusin’ the Louvre June 13th, 2012 @ 11:04 AM

Michel Klein Gains New Backer; Launches Sunglass Collection June 13th, 2012 @ 00:48 AM

Sykes Jettisoned by Aquascutum; Maurer In at Rabanne June 06th, 2012 @ 00:18 AM

Armani Conquers China, Chastises the Pope June 01st, 2012 @ 11:53 AM


Haider Ackermann’s Spiritual Élan

Godfrey Deeny
September 29th, 2012 @ 4:27 PM - Paris

Some folks go to a temple, mosque or church to pray at the weekend; a certain sort of fashionistas goes to worship at a Haider Ackermann show.

It may seem sacrilegious to suggest that about a parade of clothes, to compare a runway show to a sacred ceremony, but Ackermann’s latest runway expression had a devout air. Even though the soundtrack was dramatic and wordy in the basement boxing ring underneath Bercy, Paris’ main rock concert venue – Bruce Springsteen played upstairs before the summer – there was a hushed silence throughout the show. Deservedly so.

Ackermann – a Dutch-Colombian polyglot, for want of a better term – is a really good designer; simply put his clothes make women look majestic. There is an old acid taste of fashion; do the models look happy wearing a designer’s clothes? It’s a 50/50 test because models, being inexperience youth, generally want anything that will get them a date with a rock star with a Lear jet. Ackermann has a completely different effect: his designs suggest a whole new world, one of nobility, elegance, fine conversation and modern refinement, where everyone is witty and wise. Rarely, after seeing at least 5,000 runway shows in my life, have I ever seen models look more proud.

For next spring, Ackermann has composed a rather revolutionary mix or French Revolutionary Jacobin stripes, strict silhouette and icy control added to evocative Japanese imperial chic – Obi belts, kimono cuts – allied to inscrutable finish, makeup and hair.

The designer, on a business level, also broke new ground: after several seasons of overly complicated clothes, by presenting some lean, rather divine tailoring. Too many of his recent shows were like an algebra test. It had become a running joke among heterosexuals in the fashion industry that one could finish a good bottle of Chablis quicker than work out how to put an Ackermann cocktail dress on your girlfriend. Not any more.

The hushed, awed silence ended at the finale, when an Italian runway photographer burst out: “Ma guarda che specttaclo!” - meaning “look what a great spectacle” - acknowledging the beauty we were all too slow to cheer. That awakened the almost sleepy morning audience, who responded with a standing ovation to this was a brilliant statement of chic.

Let’s be clear: after nearly four weeks of fashion in New York, London, Milan and Paris, this was the most beautiful collection so far. An existential and spiritual moment, where the sheer refinement of the vision, reminded us that the human imagination and spirit can soar to such heights that our tricky existence is suddenly more noble. A genuine work of art.

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