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Brazil’s New London Pop-Up September 21st, 2012 @ 7:20 PM


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Roitfeld, Mum and Son, Open in Brazil September 07th, 2012 @ 00:54 AM


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Sykes Jettisoned by Aquascutum; Maurer In at Rabanne June 06th, 2012 @ 00:18 AM


Armani Conquers China, Chastises the Pope June 01st, 2012 @ 11:53 AM



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Dolce & Gabbana: Sizzling Sicily

Godfrey Deeny
September 24th, 2012 @ 4:08 PM - Milan

It’s becoming something of a habit at Dolce & Gabbana. The duo’s source of inspiration has always been centered on Sicily, birthplace of Domenico Dolce, but this weekend’s catwalk display makes it three shows in a row that the pair have literally referenced the Mediterranean island throughout a show.

Not that we didn’t like a lot of the clothes – notably puppet prints used in grand gowns, headscarves, cutaway skirts, hot pants and even bra tops. And one never felt very far from the blistering cove on the Aeolian Islands at a show which climaxed with a regiment of models in cotton windbreaker stripe minis dresses and centurion’s shorts.

Though the wittiest moments were the wacky wicker chair looks - little black dresses encircled with elaborate cane contraptions mimicking rattan terrace furniture and finely sculpted around the torso. One couldn’t actually imagine any woman wearing them anywhere other than a catwalk, but that was the whole point. Thoroughly indulgent images, not only will they make great editorial viewing, they lovingly expressed the house’s DNA of colorful excess.

This spring 2013 collection, presented Sunday afternoon, Sept. 23 in Milan, did have the odd non-Sicilian influence – part of a general pan Asian moment in Italy, the pair sent out Geisha geta shoes, albeit followed by mega wedges whose heels mimicked a contessa’s fan.

Still, Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana never like their theme to be ambiguous. So, the backdrop was a trio of enormous oil amphorae and massive cacti, the cheesy Italian love song soundtrack and invitation a drawing of a festive carnival donkey surrounded by bitter lemons.

Entitled, “best wishes from Taormina,” the show had great pep and joie de vivre. Yet the very fact that this was yet another cruise around Sicily made it just a tad too predictable. So much so, that the photography pit ended up collectively singing the classic Italian ballad, “Nel blu dipinto di blu.” That’s the one with the chorus that begins, “Volare,” or flying, which is what this shows did not quite do.

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