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Versus Hires Jonathan Anderson November 29th, 2012 @ 11:04 AM


Cacharel Unveils New CEO, in Major Corporate Revamp November 21st, 2012 @ 00:56 AM


Kane Drops Out of Versus in Major Shake-up November 20th, 2012 @ 10:14 AM


Pucci’s Madison Avenue Store Debuts Massive Expansion November 16th, 2012 @ 00:35 AM


Ghesquière Departs Balenciaga in Major Surprise November 05th, 2012 @ 00:43 AM


Sao Paulo Fashion Week: Between Optimism and Fear November 02nd, 2012 @ 00:28 AM


London Unveils Men’s Season Schedule November 01st, 2012 @ 00:36 AM


Azzaro Releases Castello Branco October 25th, 2012 @ 00:18 AM


Revenue Soars 22 Percent at LVMH in First Three Quarters October 16th, 2012 @ 00:18 AM


Rykiel Names Geraldo da Conceicao Artistic Director September 21st, 2012 @ 8:12 PM


Brazil’s New London Pop-Up September 21st, 2012 @ 7:20 PM


McQueen Men Returning Home to London September 12th, 2012 @ 7:19 PM


Roitfeld, Mum and Son, Open in Brazil September 07th, 2012 @ 00:54 AM


Berluti Opens to Big-Time Business in London September 06th, 2012 @ 3:27 PM


Stefano Pilati Back with a Bang at Zegna September 05th, 2012 @ 7:10 PM


Hugo Boss Wows in Berlin, Plans for New York July 06th, 2012 @ 00:17 AM


Salvatore Ferragamo: Crusin’ the Louvre June 13th, 2012 @ 11:04 AM


Michel Klein Gains New Backer; Launches Sunglass Collection June 13th, 2012 @ 00:48 AM


Sykes Jettisoned by Aquascutum; Maurer In at Rabanne June 06th, 2012 @ 00:18 AM


Armani Conquers China, Chastises the Pope June 01st, 2012 @ 11:53 AM



.

Calvin Klein: Abstract Eroticism

Godfrey Deeny
September 13th, 2012 @ 6:10 PM - New York

Abstract art may seem totally alien to fashion where clothes have to fit and thus have a coherent, recognizable form. Yet it was the sense of abstraction in the sculptural shapes, revolutionary molding and bizarre compression of material that made the latest Calvin Klein show such a clever fashion moment, such a raffish statement of eroticism.

Calvin Klein’s designer Francisco Costa is New York-based designer whose work comes nearest to fine art, in the sense that his style is based highly explorative techniques and the use of fabrics and fabrications that are almost insurrectionary.

Based, albeit loosely, on the idea of a pin-up, Costa dimpled and contoured a whole series of conical bustiers and peplum tops giving them an oddly nonfigurative appearance. Yet the moiré and reed silk fabrics he used added a depth and a sense of power that was all very seductive.

“I wanted the clothes to feel precise but sexy. A little like a car, because cars have a certain erotic power,” said the designer, who stressed that finishing many looks 31 inches from the shoulder add a certain suggestiveness.

“It means you are covered but also exposed,” he giggled, after the show staged Thursday, Sept. 13, in the ground floor of the house’s New York headquarters.

Costa’s Brazilian roots also peeped out in the mesh tunics that covered several dresses, whose twisting lines echoed the curling shapes of Portuguese colonial designs or the sweeping pathways of urbanist Robert Burle Marx. But only just, for this was a display of truly elegant organic abstraction, backed up by an industrial soundtrack that made one think the clothes were churned by some hidden furnace.

In a word, only in New York, the world’s modern art capital, would a fashion designer attempt a show like this. And, happily for Costa, brilliantly pull it off.

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