Fashion Wire Daily: the First Word in Fashion


Versus Hires Jonathan Anderson November 29th, 2012 @ 11:04 AM

Cacharel Unveils New CEO, in Major Corporate Revamp November 21st, 2012 @ 00:56 AM

Kane Drops Out of Versus in Major Shake-up November 20th, 2012 @ 10:14 AM

Pucci’s Madison Avenue Store Debuts Massive Expansion November 16th, 2012 @ 00:35 AM

Ghesquière Departs Balenciaga in Major Surprise November 05th, 2012 @ 00:43 AM

Sao Paulo Fashion Week: Between Optimism and Fear November 02nd, 2012 @ 00:28 AM

London Unveils Men’s Season Schedule November 01st, 2012 @ 00:36 AM

Azzaro Releases Castello Branco October 25th, 2012 @ 00:18 AM

Revenue Soars 22 Percent at LVMH in First Three Quarters October 16th, 2012 @ 00:18 AM

Rykiel Names Geraldo da Conceicao Artistic Director September 21st, 2012 @ 8:12 PM

Brazil’s New London Pop-Up September 21st, 2012 @ 7:20 PM

McQueen Men Returning Home to London September 12th, 2012 @ 7:19 PM

Roitfeld, Mum and Son, Open in Brazil September 07th, 2012 @ 00:54 AM

Berluti Opens to Big-Time Business in London September 06th, 2012 @ 3:27 PM

Stefano Pilati Back with a Bang at Zegna September 05th, 2012 @ 7:10 PM

Hugo Boss Wows in Berlin, Plans for New York July 06th, 2012 @ 00:17 AM

Salvatore Ferragamo: Crusin’ the Louvre June 13th, 2012 @ 11:04 AM

Michel Klein Gains New Backer; Launches Sunglass Collection June 13th, 2012 @ 00:48 AM

Sykes Jettisoned by Aquascutum; Maurer In at Rabanne June 06th, 2012 @ 00:18 AM

Armani Conquers China, Chastises the Pope June 01st, 2012 @ 11:53 AM


Chanel’s Newly Minted Vintage

Godfrey Deeny
July 03rd, 2012 @ 1:12 PM - Paris

Karl Lagerfeld went back to the past in the latest Chanel haute couture show, entitling it New Vintage, even as he radically improved all the original ideas in this charmingly real yet faux old fashion revival.

Staged in a never-before-used-for-fashion giant hall hidden remarkably in the back of the Grand Palais, guests watched this show on Tuesday, July 3, seated on wicker chairs, as if in a very posh salon. In its now legendary determination to express Lagerfeld’s every aesthetic desires, Chanel had the entire ceiling – about six tennis courts worth – repainted in a neo classical trompe l'oeil glory.

“It is what it was not, and it could be what it has never been before,” punned fashion’s greatest talker Lagerfeld, about a fall 2012 collection that referenced vintage in every look even as it took that idea somewhere far more newly refined.

This spring, the house acquired two vintage garments by Chanel from the '30s and '50s – a coat and a dress, and they ignited the couturier’s imagination.

His smartest play was coaxing a brilliant display from the famed Chanel atelier, creating a whole series of coats that were completely made of embroidery – one demanding 3,000 hours of needlework.

“Nowadays, one can find quite well-made clothes in Zara and other chains, so for our couture clients it’s essential to create clothes that are unique. That can never be reproduced en masse,” Lagerfeld told FWD.

Harlequin patterned coats, finished in combinations of cashmere, organza and silver ribbon where particularly impressive, as were miniature check pattern suits, their edges finished with hand shredded chiffon. And, just when everyone had caught up with the huge wave of adornment that Lagerfeld had ignited at Chanel with his mega-metallic camellia-driven, Paris-Bombay multiplied Zen for multiple accessories and costume jewelry, he walks away from that whole trend in this show. Gone were the brooches, multi strands of pearls and chain belts.

Their heads covered in mesh snoods with tiny crystals, their feet anchored with tough chic metal cup heeled shoes, the models strode by in a certain faded gentility.

Shredded chiffon ran through the whole collection, a reference to Lagerfeld’s new best friend, his kitten Choupette, whose white fur inspired the ravishing white crinoline wedding dress of the finale.

“Choupette has her own two maids and eats very well. Not my food of course, but her own menu. She’s a very well kept woman and why not? They are my kinda' girl,” sniffed the designer, as over a score of camera crews waited to interview him post show.

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