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Comme des Garcons' Naïve Glory

Godfrey Deeny
March 03rd, 2012 @ 12:59 AM - Paris

There is a rite of passage in becoming a fully paid up member of the insider fashion community and it is called attending a Comme des Garcons runway show. And this label's latest show, staged Saturday, March 3, in Paris, was a telling reminder of why Comme des Garcons and its designer Rei Kawakubo have achieved such cult status. For her's is fashion at its most lovingly distilled.

For fall 2012, Kawakubo composed a collection entirely based in patterns cut in a classical manner, but then sewn together so the seams stick out rather than in, and the net result was a beautifully naive silhouette. Hyper wide A Line coats, or splayed jackets all made in felt wool in various strong hues, such as faded Yves Klein blue and blood orange, opened the show. Worn by models in prim booties with wooden heels, that almost matched the composite wood catwalk built in the Left Bank show space, and high-gloss wigs it all made for a memorable visual display, whose very improbability made the collection all the more glorious.

Gradually she morphed in prints, from her signature childlike camouflages to folky florals, before a quartet of English Garden print looks, featured four models whose heads were entirely wrapped in fabric. Which led to the show's one slightly off note, as one model was so blindfolded she almost stumbled off the catwalk.

Staged largely without any soundtrack – highly unusual for most catwalk events – the show had a spiritual air, as the audience of believers sat back and admired this intellectual designer's ingenuity.

“Two dimensions made into three,” said the designer, dressed in black, with black rimmed shades and her famed black bob-cut hair, seconds after receiving the longest applause of any show in this four weeks of fashion that began Feb. 8 in New York. Call it fashion for the purists.

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Comme des Garcons' Naïve Glory