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Calvin Klein's Beautifully Bauhaus Moment

Godfrey Deeny
February 16th, 2012 @ 4:08 PM - New York

New York's most defiantly modernist designer, Francisco Costa, went back to the past to reinvent the future in a bravura display of technical skill, path-breaking draping and advanced fabrics in his latest show for Calvin Klein.

The roots of this innovative collection, presented Thursday, Feb. 16, was in the Bauhaus and the ideas launched in that school of art filtered through these clothes, from the idea that each building, or in this case garment, be a total work of art, to the notion that radically simplified forms are often the most beautiful.

That was most clear at the finale with a septet of onyx evening dresses, unadorned by any accessory, though rife with technically demanding materials, that brought the show to a truly refined climax. Exactly shaved shearlings, subtle semi-sheer panels and laser cut finished all combined to create truly contemporary fashion.

Though the two best looks were the last, a pair of impeccably cut and contoured bodice, high-waist empire dresses that were dimpled and indented with great grace.

“Underground, post-modernist and Bauhaus,” Costa said to FWD.

“My ideas all came together while I was in L.A. And saw this amazing exhibition Under the Big Black Sun,” the designer added, referring to the hip show on the tumultuous art scene and punk music explosion in late '70s California.

In terms of silhouette, the clothes had a curvaceous quality that recalled arty chess pieces, their long curves and exact nips, tucks and panels done with a cerebral skill. While the choice of exact bob cut hairstyles a la Louise Brooks, the American actress who starred in three P.W. Pabst films in Germany at the height of the Bauhaus era, reflected the rigorous rejection of adornment in this hyper edited collection.

“I wanted underground punkiness, but slick and sexy, where all the fabrics feel like second skin,” explained Costa, before heading off to a slew of TV interviews in the backstage.

Devoid of any prints, restricted mostly to variations of black, with just bursts of poppy, sienna and parchment, and marched out to a sonorous soundtrack alternating between tinkling piano flurries and huge bomb like blasts, this show, and collection, was the finest expression of modern minimalism with a subtle historic twist that we've seen in many seasons. Yes, that good.

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