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Versus Hires Jonathan Anderson November 29th, 2012 @ 11:04 AM


Cacharel Unveils New CEO, in Major Corporate Revamp November 21st, 2012 @ 00:56 AM


Kane Drops Out of Versus in Major Shake-up November 20th, 2012 @ 10:14 AM


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Sao Paulo Fashion Week: Between Optimism and Fear November 02nd, 2012 @ 00:28 AM


London Unveils Men’s Season Schedule November 01st, 2012 @ 00:36 AM


Azzaro Releases Castello Branco October 25th, 2012 @ 00:18 AM


Revenue Soars 22 Percent at LVMH in First Three Quarters October 16th, 2012 @ 00:18 AM


Rykiel Names Geraldo da Conceicao Artistic Director September 21st, 2012 @ 8:12 PM


Brazil’s New London Pop-Up September 21st, 2012 @ 7:20 PM


McQueen Men Returning Home to London September 12th, 2012 @ 7:19 PM


Roitfeld, Mum and Son, Open in Brazil September 07th, 2012 @ 00:54 AM


Berluti Opens to Big-Time Business in London September 06th, 2012 @ 3:27 PM


Stefano Pilati Back with a Bang at Zegna September 05th, 2012 @ 7:10 PM


Hugo Boss Wows in Berlin, Plans for New York July 06th, 2012 @ 00:17 AM


Salvatore Ferragamo: Crusin’ the Louvre June 13th, 2012 @ 11:04 AM


Michel Klein Gains New Backer; Launches Sunglass Collection June 13th, 2012 @ 00:48 AM


Sykes Jettisoned by Aquascutum; Maurer In at Rabanne June 06th, 2012 @ 00:18 AM


Armani Conquers China, Chastises the Pope June 01st, 2012 @ 11:53 AM



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Diesel Black Gold Metropolitan Dudes in Pony Skin

Godfrey Deeny
January 17th, 2012 @ 2:23 PM - Milan

Diesel Black Gold brought its menswear collection all the way back from the New York runway season to Milan menswear fashion week, yet its opening moments featured enormous black and white sunset photos of both Manhattan and San Francisco. Which made sense - seeing as the collection's whole DNA is based on a fundamentally American take on rock-n-roll.

Moreover, the most compelling looks in this fall 2012 collection, staged Tuesday Jan. 17, in a converted south Milan factory, were a rigid, blue nylon/wool mix tuxedo combo with piping - think rock dandy at an awards - or a dramatic double breasted caban in the leather of the season - pony skin.

At times it felt as if the whole collection was called in by a magazine stylist to dress a rock band about to start on an arena concert tour. Though these rockers were more likely to get to the shows on a motorbike than private plane, seeing as most of them were attired wide open, vintage biker boots.

Diesel Black Gold is the "couture" collection of the phenomenally successful Diesel jeans and business developed by savvy entrepreneur Renzo Rosso, and a admirable way of moving the label up-market while keeping close to its roots. Its well tailored without being exacting, emphasizing its democratic air and style. Yet while its feels some distance from the fashion houses of Milanese designers, Black Gold works as a fashion collection both by being approachable and by being cutting edge. Indeed the stand-out look in the whole show was a smart, bravura jacket made in three vertical layers of contrasting materials - sleek nylon at the shoulders, a band of mohair across the chest, all anchored by a super fine wool torso. It was worthy of any high-end label's runway, but rocked too.

We are not terribly sure who actually designed this collection, seeing nobody took a bow at the finale. Apparently it is the creative co-ordinator Roberto Lorenzi. And that's a pity as this show merited all the hearty applause it received at the finale, climaxing with a single guitarist blasting out anthemic solo.

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