Fashion Wire Daily: the First Word in Fashion


Versus Hires Jonathan Anderson November 29th, 2012 @ 11:04 AM

Cacharel Unveils New CEO, in Major Corporate Revamp November 21st, 2012 @ 00:56 AM

Kane Drops Out of Versus in Major Shake-up November 20th, 2012 @ 10:14 AM

Pucci’s Madison Avenue Store Debuts Massive Expansion November 16th, 2012 @ 00:35 AM

Ghesquière Departs Balenciaga in Major Surprise November 05th, 2012 @ 00:43 AM

Sao Paulo Fashion Week: Between Optimism and Fear November 02nd, 2012 @ 00:28 AM

London Unveils Men’s Season Schedule November 01st, 2012 @ 00:36 AM

Azzaro Releases Castello Branco October 25th, 2012 @ 00:18 AM

Revenue Soars 22 Percent at LVMH in First Three Quarters October 16th, 2012 @ 00:18 AM

Rykiel Names Geraldo da Conceicao Artistic Director September 21st, 2012 @ 8:12 PM

Brazil’s New London Pop-Up September 21st, 2012 @ 7:20 PM

McQueen Men Returning Home to London September 12th, 2012 @ 7:19 PM

Roitfeld, Mum and Son, Open in Brazil September 07th, 2012 @ 00:54 AM

Berluti Opens to Big-Time Business in London September 06th, 2012 @ 3:27 PM

Stefano Pilati Back with a Bang at Zegna September 05th, 2012 @ 7:10 PM

Hugo Boss Wows in Berlin, Plans for New York July 06th, 2012 @ 00:17 AM

Salvatore Ferragamo: Crusin’ the Louvre June 13th, 2012 @ 11:04 AM

Michel Klein Gains New Backer; Launches Sunglass Collection June 13th, 2012 @ 00:48 AM

Sykes Jettisoned by Aquascutum; Maurer In at Rabanne June 06th, 2012 @ 00:18 AM

Armani Conquers China, Chastises the Pope June 01st, 2012 @ 11:53 AM


Rochas: Poise with a Capital P

Godfrey Deeny
March 02nd, 2011 @ 3:20 PM - Paris

Poise, a word of Latin origin meaning to have substance or weight, though in the sense not of mass but of demonstrating a certain grace and refinement, seems the right term to describe the latest show by Rochas.

Poise was the overriding mood of the classy fall 2011 collection staged on Wednesday, March 2, in Paris. And poise because this was an assured collection by a designer intent on creating a new take on what it means to be chic today.

"I looked up Google for the word chic. It's a huge term in fashion, and I did not like any of the definitions I found, and the images of chic on Google were even worse, horrible. So I thought let's make a collection without any references, just an attempt to create a new sense of what is chic," explained Marco Zanini, the Italian who has been artistic direction of Rochas for five seasons.

So rather than rifling through Rochas' archives and capturing its alleged DNA - though what that might be is far from clear - Zanini began with a carte blanche. He opened with crisp suits or sleek short skirts coupled with cashmere tanks featuring mini graphic logos, with models enjoying the added jaunty nonchalance of Russian astrakhan chapka hats. He layered silk ribbons into some elegant flowing skirts and dresses; he cut with great precision double face cashmere coats with '50s just too large for the shoulder volumes.

A favorite look was a midnight blue jacquard cocktail that evoked the memory of Audrey Hepburn's still and certain beauty. It was a simple yet perfect outfit. Presented in a construction site deep in the bowels of the experimental Palais de Tokyo museum, the show had a charmingly understated elan. Above all it had poise, which in the soberest season in memory in Europe seemed the ideal quality for next autumn.

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