Fashion Wire Daily: the First Word in Fashion


Versus Hires Jonathan Anderson November 29th, 2012 @ 11:04 AM

Cacharel Unveils New CEO, in Major Corporate Revamp November 21st, 2012 @ 00:56 AM

Kane Drops Out of Versus in Major Shake-up November 20th, 2012 @ 10:14 AM

Pucci’s Madison Avenue Store Debuts Massive Expansion November 16th, 2012 @ 00:35 AM

Ghesquière Departs Balenciaga in Major Surprise November 05th, 2012 @ 00:43 AM

Sao Paulo Fashion Week: Between Optimism and Fear November 02nd, 2012 @ 00:28 AM

London Unveils Men’s Season Schedule November 01st, 2012 @ 00:36 AM

Azzaro Releases Castello Branco October 25th, 2012 @ 00:18 AM

Revenue Soars 22 Percent at LVMH in First Three Quarters October 16th, 2012 @ 00:18 AM

Rykiel Names Geraldo da Conceicao Artistic Director September 21st, 2012 @ 8:12 PM

Brazil’s New London Pop-Up September 21st, 2012 @ 7:20 PM

McQueen Men Returning Home to London September 12th, 2012 @ 7:19 PM

Roitfeld, Mum and Son, Open in Brazil September 07th, 2012 @ 00:54 AM

Berluti Opens to Big-Time Business in London September 06th, 2012 @ 3:27 PM

Stefano Pilati Back with a Bang at Zegna September 05th, 2012 @ 7:10 PM

Hugo Boss Wows in Berlin, Plans for New York July 06th, 2012 @ 00:17 AM

Salvatore Ferragamo: Crusin’ the Louvre June 13th, 2012 @ 11:04 AM

Michel Klein Gains New Backer; Launches Sunglass Collection June 13th, 2012 @ 00:48 AM

Sykes Jettisoned by Aquascutum; Maurer In at Rabanne June 06th, 2012 @ 00:18 AM

Armani Conquers China, Chastises the Pope June 01st, 2012 @ 11:53 AM


Calvin Klein’s Modernist Mods

Godfrey Deeny
February 18th, 2011 @ 00:19 AM - New York

Modernism, of the most exacting and telling sort, and the Mods' dandified take on style and dressing were what the latest Calvin Klein show by the house's women's ready-to-wear designer Francisco Costa was all about.

The Mods, surely the best-dressed of all the many British youth cults, were the wellspring of this intriguing fall 2011 collection, presented in the house's own show space in New York on Thursday, Feb. 17.

Mods were a reaction to what they saw as scruffy, provincial rockers and their style mixed French Nouvelle Vague cinema chic with natty Italian suiting. But the inventive Costa - never a literal designer - wove a whole new magic, by injecting the spruce cool of the Mods into hyper modernist dressing.

"I began by thinking of the Mods and their sense of style, but then added volume and took it somewhere different with the fabrics," said Francisco Costa backstage after the show.

The hedonism of the British youth cult was apparent in the curvy silhouette, almost chess piece, which Costa used in slate metallic sheath dresses or Alpaca sweatshirts. Though his most striking looks were a series of mono-color short dresses enlivened with just a few contrasting panels.

Costa also broke new ground with his fabrics, in particular a ribbon jacquard that was futurist and dramatic when used in several great cocktail dresses. Most looks were anchored by brushed calf pumps in colors like wheat, zinc and truffle. Call it urban cool at its most austere.

Yet, though striking and highly inventive, the collection somehow was a tad too severe and relentless. The clothes had almost too much gravitas. Costa certainly delivered in terms of new ideas, but ultimately this collection was an artistic, rather than an aesthetic, success. Which is not quite the right idea in fashion.

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