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Armani Conquers China, Chastises the Pope June 01st, 2012 @ 11:53 AM



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3.1 Phillip Lim's Gang Appreciation

Simone Goller
February 17th, 2011 @ 11:00 AM - New York

Drawing from Mexican and Japanese gang culture was one of few references to which Phillip Lim accredited his fall 2011 line that was presented at Pier 61 on the west side's Hudson River in downtown New York on Wednesday, Feb. 16.

"A Loitering Presence," as he entitled the collection, proved that the California native was no stranger to contemporary street wear and its influence in modern fashion. "We tried to build our gang culture," said Lim, referring to his gang of the dandelions in a nod to last season's theme, as he spoke of much research in mixing and transforming different fabrics and textures, a clearly intellectual process he calls "sensitive technology." "We try to disguise and weave, and weave out, and kind of trick the eye so that people can approach these fabrics," Lim said.

Looks were very approachable and well blended, with smooth and shiny liquid patent paneling against bold curly shearling collars as outerwear. With fold over culottes and low-slung front fold trousers, angles and pleating held a stance of their own as Mexican gang garb was represented. Heavily tattooed Japanese gang members, Yakuza, as well as images of geishas supplied the nouveau print seen in shift dresses - delicate and elegantly long strokes that could easily be transferred to a fine china design.

Lim's graphic imagery for his voluminous conical gowns and cylinder skirts, he explained, came from the figure of a girl on her bike. "It's a graphic that is round, a round that is graphic," he said. "We tried to capture the essence, the emotion, the image that trails. The roundness of her silhouette." Many looks featured neckties strewn to the side as if she was still riding against the windy current.

3.1 Phillip Lim is wearable, colorful and fearless for fall. "I love color. I think that we should never be afraid of colors. And this season, the green, it's money," the designer said with a laugh. Lim's appreciation for art and his skill are overtly represented in his covetable collection and his green says it all.

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