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Brazil’s New London Pop-Up September 21st, 2012 @ 7:20 PM


McQueen Men Returning Home to London September 12th, 2012 @ 7:19 PM


Roitfeld, Mum and Son, Open in Brazil September 07th, 2012 @ 00:54 AM


Berluti Opens to Big-Time Business in London September 06th, 2012 @ 3:27 PM


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Michel Klein Gains New Backer; Launches Sunglass Collection June 13th, 2012 @ 00:48 AM


Sykes Jettisoned by Aquascutum; Maurer In at Rabanne June 06th, 2012 @ 00:18 AM


Armani Conquers China, Chastises the Pope June 01st, 2012 @ 11:53 AM



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Space Age Giorgio Armani Prive

Godfrey Deeny
January 24th, 2011 @ 8:36 PM - Paris

Giorgio Armani's latest haute couture collection was a major departure for his fashion house, a jet-propelled take-off into outer space and a powerful relaunch of the retro futurism of the '60s in a ground-breaking show in Paris Monday, Jan. 24.

Armani, the most rigorous and self-disciplined of designers, enjoyed an unprecedented time warp – a small leap for man, a gigantic leap for Armani – reinventing his cut, silhouette, fabric choice and even color scheme in a revolutionary moment for the 76-year-old couturier.

Gone were Armani’s non-colors of lichen, cement or mud; absent his fluid, linear cut and ejected his sense of classic symmetry. Almost the entire collection was composed of iridescent, metallic silk fabrics that shone and shimmered, almost like liquid metals, in molten reds, cobalt blues and vibrant "Star Wars" greens. Captain Kirk Armani also cut and chopped and slashed with asymmetrical dresses, twisting scallop neck tops and jutting tunics. So radical was the whole Space Age vibe, the label inside might have read Pierre Cardin and no one would have been surprised.

Topped by flying saucer hats – courtesy of London-based milliner Phillip Treacy – and anchored by Perspex-heeled platforms, the models marched down the catwalk in tony Place Vendome to a soundtrack of galactic funk.

But the key to this collection was the backdrop, huge images of beveled jewels in crimson and blue violets, colors and shapes reproduced in the dazzling jewels used as accessories.

“I wandered across a striking bracelet in a not particularly known jeweler in Milan, and the strength of the piece suggested that I take a new direction, something dazzling and strong,” Armani said, as a throng of photographers fought for shots of the couturier with the likes of Sophia Loren, Asia Argento, pop princess Amber Le Bon and Pierre Sarkozy, son of French President Nicolas Sarkozy.

Ironically, the collection contained practically no blatant red carpet looks, an Armani staple, particularly one month before the Oscar night in Los Angeles. Doubly so, as the Armani front-row featured Jodie Foster, the actress who helped launched Armani’s dominant role dressing the Academy Awards red carpet, a double Oscar winner herself, attending her first ever fashion show.

Foster joined Armani for dinner after the show in Mathi’s, the intimate supper club favored by major league designers in Paris, located a couple of hundred yards from Cardin’s Paris townhouse. There, she dined on salmon, veal and Laduree macaroons along side film director Pedro Almodovar and happening actress Olivia Wilde.

The only mystery is, what will Armani dress his ladies in next month at Kodak Theater? They will surely surprise, though not half as much as this collection, Armani’s most radical aesthetic paradigm in two decades.

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