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Brazil’s New London Pop-Up September 21st, 2012 @ 7:20 PM


McQueen Men Returning Home to London September 12th, 2012 @ 7:19 PM


Roitfeld, Mum and Son, Open in Brazil September 07th, 2012 @ 00:54 AM


Berluti Opens to Big-Time Business in London September 06th, 2012 @ 3:27 PM


Stefano Pilati Back with a Bang at Zegna September 05th, 2012 @ 7:10 PM


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Sykes Jettisoned by Aquascutum; Maurer In at Rabanne June 06th, 2012 @ 00:18 AM


Armani Conquers China, Chastises the Pope June 01st, 2012 @ 11:53 AM



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Lanvin’s Elegant High End Hiker

Godfrey Deeny
January 23rd, 2011 @ 10:36 AM - Paris

If any brand is writing the book on the new romantic elegance that is overwhelming Paris men’s runways this season, it is surely Lanvin, whose active sports meets high concept tailoring collection was the freshest expression of today’s youthful sophistication.

Staged Sunday morning, Jan. 23, in the Palais de Tokyo contemporary art museum, the show was haute chic meets high technology, from the magnets that kept shut the great opening detective trench coat in felt wool to armored-looking flaps that wrapped around the modernist hiking boots many models wore.

Jersey thermal, bonded and then coated, made the woolen fabric look as it was neoprene, and leather over-treated with jersey gave the clothes an almost industrial finish. But the cutting was always lean and refined. Inevitably, edges were frayed in that signature old money but new attitude Lanvin signature.

“Elegance is never used to describe a young guy, always older men or women. Young men are meant to be cool or awesome, never elegant. So I thought it would be an interesting exercise to take elegance into fashion, but with an active element,” explained Lanvin’s creative director Alber Elbaz said after the show,

Each suit had sportswear elements like a great silvery gray double-breasted suit that design director Lucas Ossendrijver termed a “double, double-breasted” since it had an interior set of hidden buttons. Ossendrijver himself wore the latest Lanvin hipster accessory, a belt made from a high altitude mountaineer rope, held in place by a climber’s large anchor.

For evening, Lanvin offered satin tuxedos and jodhpurs in unlikely contrasting colors - medical pill yellow or early gray. The design duo of Elbaz and Ossendrijver led the whole hot trend of men wearing hiking boots in an urban context.

Accessorizing the collection with a selection of great new two-tone fedoras – reminiscent of current hit TV show Broadway Empire - was also smart, toughening the allure.

This was not a collection that riffed on popular culture. Instead, it was a visual essay on how to make young men elegant, but with a 21st century aesthetic.



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