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Sao Paulo Fashion Week: Between Optimism and Fear November 02nd, 2012 @ 00:28 AM


London Unveils Men’s Season Schedule November 01st, 2012 @ 00:36 AM


Azzaro Releases Castello Branco October 25th, 2012 @ 00:18 AM


Revenue Soars 22 Percent at LVMH in First Three Quarters October 16th, 2012 @ 00:18 AM


Rykiel Names Geraldo da Conceicao Artistic Director September 21st, 2012 @ 8:12 PM


Brazil’s New London Pop-Up September 21st, 2012 @ 7:20 PM


McQueen Men Returning Home to London September 12th, 2012 @ 7:19 PM


Roitfeld, Mum and Son, Open in Brazil September 07th, 2012 @ 00:54 AM


Berluti Opens to Big-Time Business in London September 06th, 2012 @ 3:27 PM


Stefano Pilati Back with a Bang at Zegna September 05th, 2012 @ 7:10 PM


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Salvatore Ferragamo: Crusin’ the Louvre June 13th, 2012 @ 11:04 AM


Michel Klein Gains New Backer; Launches Sunglass Collection June 13th, 2012 @ 00:48 AM


Sykes Jettisoned by Aquascutum; Maurer In at Rabanne June 06th, 2012 @ 00:18 AM


Armani Conquers China, Chastises the Pope June 01st, 2012 @ 11:53 AM



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Fendi: Geometric Form, Ladylike Visions

Godfrey Deeny
September 24th, 2010 @ 00:51 AM - Milan

If there is any brand in Milan whose runway theme is hard to predict, it must be Fendi, whose spring 2011 collection by Karl Lagerfeld, shown Thursday, Sept. 23, was a masculine meets feminine conception with a very real difference.

In the hands of other, lesser, talents this would have meant mixing menswear fabrics with a female silhouette, but at Fendi it led to some strikingly new dramatic shapes and tonalities for the coming spring.

“It’s a geometric collection in soft materials, makes the whole thing float, and then, after all this beige, there was a need for color, which is why we used the bright colors seen at sunset,” Fendi’s creative director Lagerfeld said post show.

“I did not want mark down Saint Laurent. There’s far too much of that around,” Lagerfeld said with a dismissive gesture, in reference to the now literally dozens of shows in New York, London and Milan that evoked Yves Saint Laurent’s colors and cuts, in the wake of the French designer’s monumental retrospective this year at Paris’ Petit Palais.

Like the better-run Milan houses, Fendi telegraphed its intentions with the invitation, cream paper cut out and stained with what looked like cappuccino – the same look that became the backdrop of show.

The Italianate sensibility continued in the soundtrack, where DJ Michel Gaubert sampled early '70s erotic movies, drumbeats and dramatic pulsing sounds, which all complimented this unexpected collection. But if the music was faintly louche, the almost to the ankle length was decidedly demure.

Shift dresses with huge curvy, priest's robe-like sleeves, flounced blouses in voluminous proportions, asymmetrical shirts that looked like an upside down men’s jacket and some stunning looking woven leather skirts all felt fresh and new.

Fendi’s fabric innovations are so sophisticated they leave even experts puzzled. For example, critics sitting front row were divided over whether one dramatic red dress was in waxed taffeta or treated leather, though when asked, Lagerfeld responded: “Oh that, it was waxed nylon actually,” smiled the designer. His finale of razor thin rubber cocktail dresses finished with micro flowers sewn as if to darn up old holes, will be photographed by magazines worldwide.

“They were darned by the atelier, as if people were sewing up old socks. It’s very Italian Neorealist, and very neo-romantic at the same time,” laughed Lagerfeld, as he pulled up his ever-present sunglasses and winked.

The show also featured some notable new accessories, in particular some great new bags in contrasting vivid Pop Art hues or clutches in contrasting strips of woven leather.

Mega sunglasses, an important new Italian trend, were also stars on this catwalk, as Fendi finally begins to move away from its signature double F logo print shades. For spring, the look was cartoon geek, brainy and knowing, just like this collection.

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Fashion Wire Daily: The Last Word in Fashion

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