Fashion Wire Daily: the First Word in Fashion


Versus Hires Jonathan Anderson November 29th, 2012 @ 11:04 AM

Cacharel Unveils New CEO, in Major Corporate Revamp November 21st, 2012 @ 00:56 AM

Kane Drops Out of Versus in Major Shake-up November 20th, 2012 @ 10:14 AM

Pucci’s Madison Avenue Store Debuts Massive Expansion November 16th, 2012 @ 00:35 AM

Ghesquière Departs Balenciaga in Major Surprise November 05th, 2012 @ 00:43 AM

Sao Paulo Fashion Week: Between Optimism and Fear November 02nd, 2012 @ 00:28 AM

London Unveils Men’s Season Schedule November 01st, 2012 @ 00:36 AM

Azzaro Releases Castello Branco October 25th, 2012 @ 00:18 AM

Revenue Soars 22 Percent at LVMH in First Three Quarters October 16th, 2012 @ 00:18 AM

Rykiel Names Geraldo da Conceicao Artistic Director September 21st, 2012 @ 8:12 PM

Brazil’s New London Pop-Up September 21st, 2012 @ 7:20 PM

McQueen Men Returning Home to London September 12th, 2012 @ 7:19 PM

Roitfeld, Mum and Son, Open in Brazil September 07th, 2012 @ 00:54 AM

Berluti Opens to Big-Time Business in London September 06th, 2012 @ 3:27 PM

Stefano Pilati Back with a Bang at Zegna September 05th, 2012 @ 7:10 PM

Hugo Boss Wows in Berlin, Plans for New York July 06th, 2012 @ 00:17 AM

Salvatore Ferragamo: Crusin’ the Louvre June 13th, 2012 @ 11:04 AM

Michel Klein Gains New Backer; Launches Sunglass Collection June 13th, 2012 @ 00:48 AM

Sykes Jettisoned by Aquascutum; Maurer In at Rabanne June 06th, 2012 @ 00:18 AM

Armani Conquers China, Chastises the Pope June 01st, 2012 @ 11:53 AM


Lanvin Travels With Flamboyance

Godfrey Deeny
January 24th, 2010 @ 4:26 PM - Paris

Though it’s not the most important thing one can say about a high-end fashion label, it’s often the most revealing, even if two-sided, compliment. If one had to estimate which men’s fashion collection is going to be the most copied this coming Fall 2010, it’s a good bet it will be Lanvin, which unfurled a beautiful collection of quirky contemporary fashion Sunday, Jan. 24, in Paris.

Lanvin’s poetic clothing, from frayed seamed jackets to off-the-shoulder cool wool dusters, will appear in more toned-down versions all over the planet this fall, though no replica will ever rival the originals on view in the Palais de Tokyo contemporary art museum.

A sense of at-ease global traveler wafted through this collection, whether the chiffon pants with double side hems cut with a certain swagger, or the druids coats - chocolate hued front and flat Prussian gray back.

Lanvin certainly honed in on the biggest Paris phenomena this season, contrasting fabrics and colors in the same object. Take a pretty remarkable trench-coat, where the torso was made of craftily aged suede, while the arms came in a woven wool, with a finish almost like jute. There were even metal zips at the arm pits so you take the sleeves right off.

“We wanted to make clothes for fashion lovers, not fashion victims,” explained Lanvin’s creative director Alber Elbaz backstage after the show.

The house also boasted by far the best choice of footwear seen on the continent – like unique looking boots with bowling shoe feet and felt wool uppers, or Captain Kirk-goes-hiking boots, shiny leather below the ankle, technical nylon above.

It’s also been a European season almost completely devoid of sneakers, as if designers had decided that rubber soled footwear was the wrong way to confront the global crisis. They were also absent at Lanvin.

But what set this show apart was the sense of understated flamboyance, clothes in dark hues that whispered sophistication, which by wearing them confirmed that you were part of a exclusive aesthetic club.

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