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Brazil’s New London Pop-Up September 21st, 2012 @ 7:20 PM


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Roitfeld, Mum and Son, Open in Brazil September 07th, 2012 @ 00:54 AM


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Sykes Jettisoned by Aquascutum; Maurer In at Rabanne June 06th, 2012 @ 00:18 AM


Armani Conquers China, Chastises the Pope June 01st, 2012 @ 11:53 AM



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Dior Homme: From Tango to Tatar

Godfrey Deeny
January 23rd, 2010 @ 11:34 AM - Paris

They say men’s fashion is all about the details, but that certainly was not the case at Dior Homme Saturday afternoon, Jan. 23, in Paris, where it was all about the silhouette.

Floating, almost A-line and well away from the body, the whole profile was much different from the shapes most men are wearing today. This is what made the Fall 2010 collection by Dior Homme’s creative director Kris Van Assche so special.

Throughout, there was a faintly military air, enhanced by the shoulder loops, officer’s high collars and arty campaign boots. Staged in the boxing arena Marcel Cerdan - nicknamed the "Casablanca Clouter," the world middleweight boxing champion and lover of Edith Piaf - the models strutted around the circular catwalk, their coats flowing behind them.

Van Assche used drier but light fabrics, so the wrinkle-free clothes kept a pretty stiff shape, yet were still able to hover that little bit, adding an adventurous authority.

On the soundtrack boomed out a suitably romantic ballad, a remix of “Temple of Love” by English '80s Goth rock band Sisters of Mercy.

“I thought the collection was very fresh. And I love to see the '80s interpreted by people who didn’t actually live them,” joked Karl Lagerfeld in a busy backstage where paparazzi fought for shots of him with Kanye West, a ubiquitous presence at Paris men’s collections this season.

The new tougher Dior attitude was summed up by the choice of a more brooding model, which was also a central element in this show. Van Assche and his design team organized model castings in Moscow, Kiev and Riga, giving the show a much more rugged feel.

“It helps keep my eye fresh, presenting a new sort of guy,” said Van Assche, noting that his foreign castings previously ranged to Sao Paulo and Buenos Aires. “People used to think that I went to Latin America on holidays. With these new guys I think they might finally get that I actually travel for work.”

So, this season at Dior Homme we’ve gone from well-groomed Tango dancer to Tatar tough guy.

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