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Armani Conquers China, Chastises the Pope June 01st, 2012 @ 11:53 AM



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D&G: Posh Piste Fashion

Godfrey Deeny
January 20th, 2010 @ 00:18 AM - Milan

Dolce & Gabbana are the reigning dichotomy of Italian fashion, who love to be poles apart in their two major lines, their signature collection and their “junior” label D&G. The latter this season was presented on Tuesday, Jan. 19, in front of a mock up of a tony Alpine resort, the type where local servants help you take off your boots, serve you mulled wine and guide you to a Jacuzzi after an afternoon on the slopes.

Practically every D&G look for Fall 2010 had a winter resort reference, as the beefy models slid out in full jumpsuit ski gear and snowboarder boots, though worn ironically over tuxedo shirts.

With Mika’s song “Blame it on the Girls,” booming out of the speakers in the house’s show space, guys rumbled by in high-tech ski goggles, wool caps and dozens of great looking snow crystal pattern sweaters. They will be warm at 6,000 feet of altitude and look smart at city sea level.

Adding to the witty mood, the designers sent out graphic Mickey Mouse black T-shirts under the padded ski jackets, perfect for a late night dance in Val d’Isere or St. Moritz.

Asked whether he hit the slopes for inspiration, the slightly built Domenico Dolce laughed, “Me on the slopes? Look, I’m not exactly that muscular, I’d just break bones at my age. No, I get my ideas from looking and observing, often - thanks to TV and the web - without even getting out of bed!”

Three days earlier, the pair heralded the return to “real” values and men, in Milan, with their Dolce & Gabbana show, staged before a giant screen showing excerpts of "Baaria," the new Italian epic about three generations of a Sicilian family. Every single model wore boots in this 20th anniversary show, pitting Sicilian peasants of their native island in cable woolen cardigans against the dandified aristocrats in strict black velvet suits. The sense of revolt was clear in the finale, when 100 models marched almost angrily off the catwalk.

Typifying the longing for earthiness at a moment of global crisis, the designers showed tuxedos with ribbed sweat pants or collarless grandfather shirts, mimicking the hit Italian film.

“We would have shown you the whole movie, we loved it so much, but at three hours, it’s too long for a runway show,” cracked Domenico Dolce.

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