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Gucci’s Top Shelf Edgy Equestrianism

There was a large, though very smooth, change of gears at Gucci, whose menswear collection shown Monday, Jan. 18, deserted the rock dandy chic that has characterized the brand’s recent shows for elegant equestrian pastures, offering cleaned up fashion that should be both a critical and commercial success.

An equestrian element ran through the collection like a string of thoroughbreds – from the signature Gucci red-green saddle bands used as trim on weekend bags to the majority of trousers, most of them finished with ankle buttons like strict jodhpurs.

The mix of craftsmanship and cool was also spot on in a great pigeon gray weekend bag with tobacco trim, color coordinated with lean jodhpurs and a suede jacket, where the jacket elbows were the exact same shade as the bag’s leather bands.

That blend of artisan and artiness was apparent in a snazzy ostrich shirt jacket in muddy brown or a striking asphalt-hued black crocodile min safari jacket that had both pizzazz and oodles of gentlemanly poise. Artiness abounded in the accessories, as well, whether a computer satchel had a leopard skin finish or a briefcase came with kangaroo prints.

“It’s about expressing the heritage of the brand, connecting Italian know-how with innovation, like glazing kangaroo or giving crocodile a powdery finish," said Gucci creative director Frida Giannini backstage. "It’s what Gucci is all about.”

Unveiled in Gucci’s custom-made show space, the collection also heralded the revival of the camel hair coat, a notable Milan trend in this four-day runway season. There were a couple of little boy suits that might have been edited out, but other than that, this was as assured a display by any designer in Milan to date this season, and Giannini’s cleverest men’s collection for Gucci.

Also impressive were the petrol blue velvet jackets and Giannini’s bravura looks for evening. Like most of her colleagues in Italy, Giannini has largely banished the dress shirt for evening, showing great astrakhan smoking jackets with clinging knits underneath. And, by the way, this Gucci showing made it official: it’s cool again for guys to wear gold chain necklaces, a look that was last seen in '80s hit police show, "Miami Vice."

Also back: wearing loafers with socks – and for fall 2010 the Gucci guy’s loafer comes in hyper shinny ostrich or burnished pigskin with a horse-bit buckle, summing up the house’s new top-shelf edgy equestrian aesthetic.

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