Fashion Wire Daily: the First Word in Fashion


Versus Hires Jonathan Anderson November 29th, 2012 @ 11:04 AM

Cacharel Unveils New CEO, in Major Corporate Revamp November 21st, 2012 @ 00:56 AM

Kane Drops Out of Versus in Major Shake-up November 20th, 2012 @ 10:14 AM

Pucci’s Madison Avenue Store Debuts Massive Expansion November 16th, 2012 @ 00:35 AM

Ghesquière Departs Balenciaga in Major Surprise November 05th, 2012 @ 00:43 AM

Sao Paulo Fashion Week: Between Optimism and Fear November 02nd, 2012 @ 00:28 AM

London Unveils Men’s Season Schedule November 01st, 2012 @ 00:36 AM

Azzaro Releases Castello Branco October 25th, 2012 @ 00:18 AM

Revenue Soars 22 Percent at LVMH in First Three Quarters October 16th, 2012 @ 00:18 AM

Rykiel Names Geraldo da Conceicao Artistic Director September 21st, 2012 @ 8:12 PM

Brazil’s New London Pop-Up September 21st, 2012 @ 7:20 PM

McQueen Men Returning Home to London September 12th, 2012 @ 7:19 PM

Roitfeld, Mum and Son, Open in Brazil September 07th, 2012 @ 00:54 AM

Berluti Opens to Big-Time Business in London September 06th, 2012 @ 3:27 PM

Stefano Pilati Back with a Bang at Zegna September 05th, 2012 @ 7:10 PM

Hugo Boss Wows in Berlin, Plans for New York July 06th, 2012 @ 00:17 AM

Salvatore Ferragamo: Crusin’ the Louvre June 13th, 2012 @ 11:04 AM

Michel Klein Gains New Backer; Launches Sunglass Collection June 13th, 2012 @ 00:48 AM

Sykes Jettisoned by Aquascutum; Maurer In at Rabanne June 06th, 2012 @ 00:18 AM

Armani Conquers China, Chastises the Pope June 01st, 2012 @ 11:53 AM


Gucci’s Top Shelf Edgy Equestrianism

Godfrey Deeny
January 18th, 2010 @ 00:36 AM - Milan

There was a large, though very smooth, change of gears at Gucci, whose menswear collection shown Monday, Jan. 18, deserted the rock dandy chic that has characterized the brand’s recent shows for elegant equestrian pastures, offering cleaned up fashion that should be both a critical and commercial success.

An equestrian element ran through the collection like a string of thoroughbreds – from the signature Gucci red-green saddle bands used as trim on weekend bags to the majority of trousers, most of them finished with ankle buttons like strict jodhpurs.

The mix of craftsmanship and cool was also spot on in a great pigeon gray weekend bag with tobacco trim, color coordinated with lean jodhpurs and a suede jacket, where the jacket elbows were the exact same shade as the bag’s leather bands.

That blend of artisan and artiness was apparent in a snazzy ostrich shirt jacket in muddy brown or a striking asphalt-hued black crocodile min safari jacket that had both pizzazz and oodles of gentlemanly poise. Artiness abounded in the accessories, as well, whether a computer satchel had a leopard skin finish or a briefcase came with kangaroo prints.

“It’s about expressing the heritage of the brand, connecting Italian know-how with innovation, like glazing kangaroo or giving crocodile a powdery finish," said Gucci creative director Frida Giannini backstage. "It’s what Gucci is all about.”

Unveiled in Gucci’s custom-made show space, the collection also heralded the revival of the camel hair coat, a notable Milan trend in this four-day runway season. There were a couple of little boy suits that might have been edited out, but other than that, this was as assured a display by any designer in Milan to date this season, and Giannini’s cleverest men’s collection for Gucci.

Also impressive were the petrol blue velvet jackets and Giannini’s bravura looks for evening. Like most of her colleagues in Italy, Giannini has largely banished the dress shirt for evening, showing great astrakhan smoking jackets with clinging knits underneath. And, by the way, this Gucci showing made it official: it’s cool again for guys to wear gold chain necklaces, a look that was last seen in '80s hit police show, "Miami Vice."

Also back: wearing loafers with socks – and for fall 2010 the Gucci guy’s loafer comes in hyper shinny ostrich or burnished pigskin with a horse-bit buckle, summing up the house’s new top-shelf edgy equestrian aesthetic.

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