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Versus Hires Jonathan Anderson November 29th, 2012 @ 11:04 AM


Cacharel Unveils New CEO, in Major Corporate Revamp November 21st, 2012 @ 00:56 AM


Kane Drops Out of Versus in Major Shake-up November 20th, 2012 @ 10:14 AM


Pucci’s Madison Avenue Store Debuts Massive Expansion November 16th, 2012 @ 00:35 AM


Ghesquière Departs Balenciaga in Major Surprise November 05th, 2012 @ 00:43 AM


Sao Paulo Fashion Week: Between Optimism and Fear November 02nd, 2012 @ 00:28 AM


London Unveils Men’s Season Schedule November 01st, 2012 @ 00:36 AM


Azzaro Releases Castello Branco October 25th, 2012 @ 00:18 AM


Revenue Soars 22 Percent at LVMH in First Three Quarters October 16th, 2012 @ 00:18 AM


Rykiel Names Geraldo da Conceicao Artistic Director September 21st, 2012 @ 8:12 PM


Brazil’s New London Pop-Up September 21st, 2012 @ 7:20 PM


McQueen Men Returning Home to London September 12th, 2012 @ 7:19 PM


Roitfeld, Mum and Son, Open in Brazil September 07th, 2012 @ 00:54 AM


Berluti Opens to Big-Time Business in London September 06th, 2012 @ 3:27 PM


Stefano Pilati Back with a Bang at Zegna September 05th, 2012 @ 7:10 PM


Hugo Boss Wows in Berlin, Plans for New York July 06th, 2012 @ 00:17 AM


Salvatore Ferragamo: Crusin’ the Louvre June 13th, 2012 @ 11:04 AM


Michel Klein Gains New Backer; Launches Sunglass Collection June 13th, 2012 @ 00:48 AM


Sykes Jettisoned by Aquascutum; Maurer In at Rabanne June 06th, 2012 @ 00:18 AM


Armani Conquers China, Chastises the Pope June 01st, 2012 @ 11:53 AM



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Into Battle with Burberry

Godfrey Deeny
January 17th, 2010 @ 00:37 AM - Milan

If the Milan men’s season delivered any message on its opening day, it’s that guys should get ready to toughen out this great recession, ideally in clothes from Burberry, whose show Saturday, Jan. 16, was a Memphis belle meets hirsute rock star moment.

Bomber pilots, returning hussars and swaggering yet faintly forlorn warriors sauntered down the catwalk of the fall 2010 Burberry show, in the house’s creative director Christopher Bailey’s latest excursion into, and subtle revamping of, Cool Britannia iconography.

Few, however, could say that these heroes were after military medals; their goal was the more prosaic one of looking so thoroughly hip they were ideally placed for a fresh romantic liaison.

“I wanted a parade, to celebrate something heroic,” said Bailey backstage, explaining that the ignition for the collection was a photo of famed pre-war pilots Alcock and Brown, the first people to fly across the Atlantic. In recognition of their exploit, both men were knighted by King George V. And what did they wear on their voyage? You’ve guessed it – Burberry.

Among the great looks Bailey sent out, some of the best were the hyper collar Spitfire jackets in sheepskin or “Quadraphenia” Mod parkas ideal for late night clubbing.

Bailey also has the savvy ability to tweak a visual reference with aplomb. He evoked officer's epaulettes, but with a several scores of golden buttons on the shoulders of jackets and sweaters that managed to be ironic yet manly at the same time.

The designer also played with Burberry’s key garment, the trench, bulking it up for a bombing raid that went no further than the nearest rave.

His sense of tailoring was also spot on, particularly in the laser cut double breasted trenches in bonded Napa leather that looked like they would hold their shape in any sort of weather. His use of fabrics was smart too - using teddy bear-like finished wools for great peacoats and parkas.

And, though it sounds like a simple thing, Bailey places buttons on his garments better than pretty much any designer in men’s fashion – an off-duty tunic looked like a Rolling Stones cover look, thanks to the inverted V line of gold knobs.

The new virile male that Milan is all about featured in a great series of Bailey flight boots that looked ideal for any modern matinee movie idol.

Remarkably, the United Kingdom’s most successful luxury brand, Burberry, staged this militaristic collection precisely at a moment when the population of that country is deeply unhappy with the nation’s war in Afghanistan, as opinion polls consistently show.

Some will judge this as a shocking example of fashion’s disconnect with reality, others as fashion’s ability to reinterpret and subvert the very society it ultimately mirrors.

Either way, one thing is sure. This collection of men’s clothes will be a surefire hit, and highly influential in terms of what men will be wearing six months from now.

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