Fashion Wire Daily: the First Word in Fashion


Versus Hires Jonathan Anderson November 29th, 2012 @ 11:04 AM

Cacharel Unveils New CEO, in Major Corporate Revamp November 21st, 2012 @ 00:56 AM

Kane Drops Out of Versus in Major Shake-up November 20th, 2012 @ 10:14 AM

Pucci’s Madison Avenue Store Debuts Massive Expansion November 16th, 2012 @ 00:35 AM

Ghesquière Departs Balenciaga in Major Surprise November 05th, 2012 @ 00:43 AM

Sao Paulo Fashion Week: Between Optimism and Fear November 02nd, 2012 @ 00:28 AM

London Unveils Men’s Season Schedule November 01st, 2012 @ 00:36 AM

Azzaro Releases Castello Branco October 25th, 2012 @ 00:18 AM

Revenue Soars 22 Percent at LVMH in First Three Quarters October 16th, 2012 @ 00:18 AM

Rykiel Names Geraldo da Conceicao Artistic Director September 21st, 2012 @ 8:12 PM

Brazil’s New London Pop-Up September 21st, 2012 @ 7:20 PM

McQueen Men Returning Home to London September 12th, 2012 @ 7:19 PM

Roitfeld, Mum and Son, Open in Brazil September 07th, 2012 @ 00:54 AM

Berluti Opens to Big-Time Business in London September 06th, 2012 @ 3:27 PM

Stefano Pilati Back with a Bang at Zegna September 05th, 2012 @ 7:10 PM

Hugo Boss Wows in Berlin, Plans for New York July 06th, 2012 @ 00:17 AM

Salvatore Ferragamo: Crusin’ the Louvre June 13th, 2012 @ 11:04 AM

Michel Klein Gains New Backer; Launches Sunglass Collection June 13th, 2012 @ 00:48 AM

Sykes Jettisoned by Aquascutum; Maurer In at Rabanne June 06th, 2012 @ 00:18 AM

Armani Conquers China, Chastises the Pope June 01st, 2012 @ 11:53 AM


Louis Vuitton: Street Butterflies, Chic Boys

Godfrey Deeny
June 25th, 2009 @ 11:34 AM - Paris

Call it an example of creative noblesse oblige, where the patrician proves he’s a gentleman by his very concern and sympathy for those who got a tougher break. This was the case with Louis Vuitton’s Spring 2010 menswear collection, inspired by New York bike messengers, shown in Paris on Wednesday, June 24.

Abused by cab drivers, riding in the draining heat-waves of summer or mid-winter snow drifts and hustling all day long, messengers are paid on a per job basis, and forget about any pension. There can be few more exhausting trades than being a Manhattan bike courier. So basing a fashion collection on the modern urban pony express is something of a stretch for Louis Vuitton, the world’s most profitable prestige products brand.

Did it work? Largely, yes, since the collection, whose program notes call the riders “Gentleman Butterflies” – had plenty of ideas – like hipster, abstract expressionist splash painted nylon blazers, which, in a zany use of technology turned out to be blown up images of butterfly wings. Eat your heart out, Jackson Pollock.

Vuitton’s menswear designer Paul Helbers riffed on lots of cycle references, whether contrasting orange or lemon shoe heels that recalled cyclists shoes, or hazard yellow luminous strips used as details on blousons.

Staged in Centre 104, the elegant new north Paris art foundation and former morgue of the city of Paris that’s become a hot catwalk destination, the show featured a black tar runway that staff brushed carefully before the first sounds of Lou Reed crooning “Take a Walk on the Wild Side” kicked off the show.

Ironically, the best looks had only a tenuous connection with delivery boys, like a brilliantly cut leather trench or a sleek calfskin biker jacket, done double face, a technique more common in women’s haute couture.

Helbers, with Vuitton’s creative director Marc Jacobs standing and applauding beside him, took his bow to throaty cheers and much clapping, few more enthusiastic than Fergie of the Black Eyed Peas, who sat front row.

“Don’t you like my look,” said singer Fergie, as she pirouetted before paparazzi, wearing an all-black outfit from Vuitton’s Pigalle prostitute collection, and complementing it well with her newly dyed black tresses. And, adding to the frock-n-roll moment, Fergie’s cohorts wore high tops designed by rapper Kanye West for Vuitton.

Still, albeit inventive and - even if this sounds silly to say about clothes - thought-provoking, the collection felt like a stretch for a luxury brand and, ultimately, felt like it should be called Louis Vuitton Sport.

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