Fashion Wire Daily: the First Word in Fashion


Versus Hires Jonathan Anderson November 29th, 2012 @ 11:04 AM

Cacharel Unveils New CEO, in Major Corporate Revamp November 21st, 2012 @ 00:56 AM

Kane Drops Out of Versus in Major Shake-up November 20th, 2012 @ 10:14 AM

Pucci’s Madison Avenue Store Debuts Massive Expansion November 16th, 2012 @ 00:35 AM

Ghesquière Departs Balenciaga in Major Surprise November 05th, 2012 @ 00:43 AM

Sao Paulo Fashion Week: Between Optimism and Fear November 02nd, 2012 @ 00:28 AM

London Unveils Men’s Season Schedule November 01st, 2012 @ 00:36 AM

Azzaro Releases Castello Branco October 25th, 2012 @ 00:18 AM

Revenue Soars 22 Percent at LVMH in First Three Quarters October 16th, 2012 @ 00:18 AM

Rykiel Names Geraldo da Conceicao Artistic Director September 21st, 2012 @ 8:12 PM

Brazil’s New London Pop-Up September 21st, 2012 @ 7:20 PM

McQueen Men Returning Home to London September 12th, 2012 @ 7:19 PM

Roitfeld, Mum and Son, Open in Brazil September 07th, 2012 @ 00:54 AM

Berluti Opens to Big-Time Business in London September 06th, 2012 @ 3:27 PM

Stefano Pilati Back with a Bang at Zegna September 05th, 2012 @ 7:10 PM

Hugo Boss Wows in Berlin, Plans for New York July 06th, 2012 @ 00:17 AM

Salvatore Ferragamo: Crusin’ the Louvre June 13th, 2012 @ 11:04 AM

Michel Klein Gains New Backer; Launches Sunglass Collection June 13th, 2012 @ 00:48 AM

Sykes Jettisoned by Aquascutum; Maurer In at Rabanne June 06th, 2012 @ 00:18 AM

Armani Conquers China, Chastises the Pope June 01st, 2012 @ 11:53 AM


Yves Saint Laurent: Pretentious Not Poised

Godfrey Deeny
June 25th, 2009 @ 11:03 AM - Paris

There was a curiously gloomy beginning to the Paris menswear season Wednesday night, June 24, at Yves Saint Laurent, where the cramped seating, irrelevant pre-show movie and occasionally derivative collection meant one left the event more dismayed than delighted.

The movie screened before the show, a black and white short by French author Samuel Benchetrit, used one actor, his son Jules, a mop-headed teen whose character takes a room in the Bristol Hotel, makes calls, smears the bathroom mirror with ketchup and then checks out. The connection to the men's collection show that followed, however, was unclear.

The largely black and white collection was quite inventive, though hard to see, as the clothes were presented in the dim half-light one associates with the entrance to a late nightclub.

For Spring 2010, YSL’s creative director Stefano Pilati wants men in voluminous jackets with peplum hems, Trappist monk baggy trousers and tough artist leather bomber jackets in funeral shades of ash, charcoal and faded gray. Pilati cuts with aplomb and is an inventive tailor, but it was odd to see several jackets bear more than a passing resemblance to the gothic minimalism of L.A. designer Rick Owens, a huge force in menswear in Paris.

Post-show, the audience twisted through a passageway to actually touch the collection, where one could only admire some great tire track sandals with zip detailing, excellent paint splashed satchels, beaten leather totes and patent leather Chelsea boots, some of the best accessories we’ve seen at the European shows so far.

A cocktail party followed in the courtyard, where a small band played jazz and guests downed lobster and ginger canapés washed down by rose champagne, and yet the atmosphere was one of forced jollity. The absent designer could not be found and guests bumped into each other in narrow, dark stairways. One left wondering why a house as luxurious as YSL had managed to get this event so wrong.

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