Burberry Goes Global with 3D Runway Show
February 08th, 2010 @ 00:45 AM
Hermes 2009 Sales Up 8.5 Percent; Wholesale Biz Plummets
February 05th, 2010 @ 00:34 AM
LVMH Suffers Declines in 2009 Sales and Profits
February 04th, 2010 @ 4:05 PM
Esprit Turnover and Profit Dips; Cash Hoard Leaps
February 03rd, 2010 @ 10:34 AM
The Body Comes to Paris
February 02nd, 2010 @ 11:49 AM
Etam and Natalia Hit Paris Catwalk
January 27th, 2010 @ 00:00 AM
Altuzarra, Peter Hidalgo Tie as Top Women's Designers at Rising Star Awards
January 26th, 2010 @ 12:23 AM
Armani Accuses Dior of Lacking Respect
January 20th, 2010 @ 12:04 AM
Sarah Jessica Parker Signs On to Halston
January 14th, 2010 @ 4:00 PM
Milan Prosecutors File Burani Bankruptcy Request
January 12th, 2010 @ 10:34 AM
Ecco Domani Names Foreign-Born Talent
January 04th, 2010 @ 6:01 PM
Eco Beauty Genius Yves Rocher Dead at 79
December 28th, 2009 @ 00:21 AM
Paris Stepping Up Pre-Collection Market
December 18th, 2009 @ 12:19 AM
Ungaro CEO Moufarrige Quits House
December 16th, 2009 @ 11:00 AM
Tom Ford’s "A Single Man"
December 15th, 2009 @ 10:27 AM
Gucci Masters – From Nightclub to Paddock
December 14th, 2009 @ 00:58 AM
New Gen Picks: Katrantzou and Pilotto
December 11th, 2009 @ 10:19 AM
Hilfiger Inks Deal with Debt Laden Safilo
December 11th, 2009 @ 00:00 AM
Bailey Wins BFC Designer of the Year Award
December 10th, 2009 @ 00:08 AM
Martin Margiela Leaves The Company He Founded
December 09th, 2009 @ 10:21 AM
|
|
Prada’s Cine Noir
Godfrey Deeny
June 23rd, 2009 @ 12:52 AM - Milan
Leave it to Miuccia Prada to come up with some properly new fashion in a Milan men's fashion season where the overriding impression is of designers tweaking their own previous body of work.
In a spring 2010 menswear season drenched and saturated with color, who but Prada would create a collection almost entirely devoid of precisely that.
From a black and white invitation made up of quotes from obscure movies, to a great new stage set of putty shade walls - with the same quotes in giant two-foot-high script - and the charcoal foam seating to the collection itself, largely made up of various takes on gray, this was as somber a summer moment as one could imagine.
“A movie, in black and white,” smiled Prada backstage, as a platoon of waiters floated around with the trays of the ideal, color coordinated, cocktail - a White Russian.
Yet, though restricted in color, this was also the most innovative of the Italian collections. Since Prada reworked her silhouette and tailoring to best sum up the new look emerging in Milan, where the jacket lapel is elongated to the belly button and even double-breasted looks have just two buttons. And forget about wearing this in a formal way - nearly all of this collection's brilliantly cut suits were worn with ragged edged silk, V-neck t-shirts.
The house's accessories department also had a smart take on the whole transparency trend of this four-day Italian season, sending out perforated leather shoes and pork pie hats and see-through dusters in a mesh nylon material more commonly associated with sneakers and fishing gear.
Moreover, Prada again out performed everyone in Milan in terms of staging. A half-dozen major labels now own their own show spaces here, but only Prada reinvents its locale every season, creating striking theatrical moments, such as this event, where the church-like proportions and performance art atmosphere had great élan.
When it comes to predicting the future of men’s fashion nobody quite compares to Miuccia Prada, the ultimate arbiter of what’s cool in Milan.
|