Fashion Wire Daily: the First Word in Fashion


Versus Hires Jonathan Anderson November 29th, 2012 @ 11:04 AM

Cacharel Unveils New CEO, in Major Corporate Revamp November 21st, 2012 @ 00:56 AM

Kane Drops Out of Versus in Major Shake-up November 20th, 2012 @ 10:14 AM

Pucci’s Madison Avenue Store Debuts Massive Expansion November 16th, 2012 @ 00:35 AM

Ghesquière Departs Balenciaga in Major Surprise November 05th, 2012 @ 00:43 AM

Sao Paulo Fashion Week: Between Optimism and Fear November 02nd, 2012 @ 00:28 AM

London Unveils Men’s Season Schedule November 01st, 2012 @ 00:36 AM

Azzaro Releases Castello Branco October 25th, 2012 @ 00:18 AM

Revenue Soars 22 Percent at LVMH in First Three Quarters October 16th, 2012 @ 00:18 AM

Rykiel Names Geraldo da Conceicao Artistic Director September 21st, 2012 @ 8:12 PM

Brazil’s New London Pop-Up September 21st, 2012 @ 7:20 PM

McQueen Men Returning Home to London September 12th, 2012 @ 7:19 PM

Roitfeld, Mum and Son, Open in Brazil September 07th, 2012 @ 00:54 AM

Berluti Opens to Big-Time Business in London September 06th, 2012 @ 3:27 PM

Stefano Pilati Back with a Bang at Zegna September 05th, 2012 @ 7:10 PM

Hugo Boss Wows in Berlin, Plans for New York July 06th, 2012 @ 00:17 AM

Salvatore Ferragamo: Crusin’ the Louvre June 13th, 2012 @ 11:04 AM

Michel Klein Gains New Backer; Launches Sunglass Collection June 13th, 2012 @ 00:48 AM

Sykes Jettisoned by Aquascutum; Maurer In at Rabanne June 06th, 2012 @ 00:18 AM

Armani Conquers China, Chastises the Pope June 01st, 2012 @ 11:53 AM


Versace: Constructivist Chic

Godfrey Deeny
January 14th, 2008 @ 10:05 AM - Milan

If Alexander Rodchenko had not died alone and broke after 25 years of enforced Soviet obscurity but instead left progeny, his grandson would have loved the latest Versace men’s collection staged this week in Milan.

At her post show dinner and latest men’s fragrance launch in the house's via del Gesu, Donatella told us that she was inspired by Thirties painter Tamara de Lempicka. But rather than the well bred aristos and moneyed haute bourgeois that Lempicka painted, we got Futurist artists gone clubbing on the catwalk.

If mixing Russian constructivism with Versace’s rock-n-roll sleek seems a tricky combination, that’s because it sometimes was. Versace’s design consultant Alexander Plokhov, the talented Russian designer who shuttered his own label in New York last year, made it a collection with extra long proportions – like coats that reached the ankles, ideal for a winter on the Steppes, but perhaps not for a post-Madison Square Garden concert.

Yet the modernist touches – like sequined lapels – and the sense of inventive tailoring, such as cowl like collars, did make for some eye catching looks. Above all, the show had plenty of that Versace signature product, the sexy and snappy black suit. Composed in shiny silk and wool mixes. with thin lapels and snug sleeves, they all looked like great merchandise for fall 2008.

Plus a group of rocker biker jackets in taut metalized leather or sleek shearling, would make for a great club entrance, anywhere. All told, a smart collection that carefully tweaked the Versace DNA. Call it Ver-Steppes-Sky.

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