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Wang's Toga Tango

Nonchalant and breezy are not necessarily two adjectives that immediately come to mind when thinking of ancient Rome – structured and regal are more like it, at least when it comes to their empire – but then again, the Romans no doubt knew how to relax amidst villas and olive trees, wrapping themselves in diaphanous folds of cloth.

The spirit of ancient Rome was the inspiration for Vera Wang's Spring '08 collection, which she showed in Bryant Park on September 7.

With a dramatic backdrop that included a full-sized tree, at first glance it looked like the view from a Japanese hilltop. This didn't seem to be accidental, as the collection seemed to reflect a juxtaposition of the two cultures: Heavy techno-silk twills were folded into kimono-like forms while with plisse goddess gowns were cut from the lightest of silks. Metallic leaf "bibs" were another nod to Rome.

These contrasting textures gave the collection both an earthy and an airy quality. Tunic sweaters revealed organza panels in the back that gave them swing, for instance. Freeform asymmetrical draping of a crepe toga could take flight, but then heavy overdyed duchesse satin used in full, calf-length "New Look" skirts and voluminous tops kept two feet planted on the ground.

However, those heavier volumes felt dowdy. And while Wang clearly marches to her own beat when it comes to volume, generally favoring romantic layers and generous uses of fabric, the weight of the duchesse felt out of step for a spring collection, particularly when the mood in fashion has shifted towards cleaner, stripped down ensembles. That’s why her togas felt like just the right mix of volume and form, allowing for fluidity without added heft.

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